How To Get Rid Of Termites

Getting rid of termites can be simpler than you think. Most termite infestations do not entail an expensive, invasive, circus tent affair. If the termite species is known (subterranean, dampwood or drywood termites) and the extent of the infestation is understood, most folks can get rid of termite issues in their homes without professional treatment.

To get rid of subterranean and dampwood termites in your home, use a soil perimeter barrier treatment (such as Termidor SC). This is highly effective at wiping out entire termite colonies. However, a whole structure drywood termite infestation may require professional fumigation. For all termite species, foam termiticide (such as Termidor Foam) is effective for small, localized treatment.

There is not a one-size-fits-all solution when it comes to termites, but not to worry! I will help you navigate the solution that is right for your situation. My termite classification table helps quickly identify your specific type of termite and the appropriate treatment. In the remainder of the article, I will provide expanded information on getting rid of specific termites and details on the prescribed treatments.

You may also be interested in reading these two related articles “How To Get Rid Of Silverfish” and “How To Get Rid Of Grasshoppers“.

Termite Classification

Termite Type	Regions	Characteristics	Signs	Treatment
Subterranean	North America (including all US states except Alaska)	Nest below ground, in damp soil Target wood in direct contact with soil (including foundation beams and wood posts) Moisture critical for survival	Mud tubes (on exterior walls, about the width of a straw) Discarded wings (often in large piles near window sills and floor boards) Wood Tunning (along the grain of the wood) Rattling or rustling sound (when disturbed by knocking or other vibrations)	Soil Perimeter Barrier (for whole house treatment) Foam Insecticide (for localized treatment) Bait Stations (when soil perimeter barrier is not a feasible option)
Drywood	Southern, coastal states (from south Florida, along Gulf of Mexico and Pacific coast)	Target dry wood (including utility poles, furniture, and structural support beams, floors and walls) Do not need soil or moisture to survive	Frass (droppings that resemble sawdust) Kick holes (pin size holes in wood near where frass is seen) Wood Tunneling (across the grain of the wood) Rattling or rustling sound (when disturbed by knocking or other vibrations)	Fumigation (for whole structure treatment) Foam Insecticide (for localized treatment
Dampwood	Warm coastal states (including Hawaii, California, and Florida) Western states (including Oregon, Washington, and some areas of Nevada, Idaho and Montana)	Target moist and rotting wood (including fence posts, sheds, wood siding and house eaves) Do not need soil to survive (but often penetrate a home through wood that is in direct contact with moist soil)	Large size (significantly larger than subterranean termites, up to 1” in length) Wood tunneling (only in damp wood that is in direct contact with the ground) *Do not* create mud tunnels**	Moisture Control (eliminating excessive moisture and replacing rotting wood) Soil Perimeter Barrier (for ground treatment around wood that is in direct contact with soil) Foam Insecticide (for localized treatment of wood not in direct contact with soil) Bait Stations (alternative when eliminating moisture source is not feasible)

Termite Classification Table – Use to identify termite species and appropriate treatment

Getting Rid Of Subterranean Termites

Subterranean termites require moisture found in soil to survive. As their name implies (subterranean, meaning underground), these types of termites often nest within soil and within damp wood that is in direct contact with soil. This means wood foundation beams and wood posts are prime targets.

Subterranean termites can work their way higher up into your home by ‘bringing the soil with them’. In order to stay hydrated, subterranean termites create mud tubes to crawl through. The presence of mud tubes on exterior walls or on wood posts is a sure sign of subterranean termite activity.

Within the wood, subterranean termites eat through wood to create hollow tunnels, running along the grain of the wood and compromising the wood’s structural integrity.

Because subterranean termites thrive underground, the most efficient treatment is a soil perimeter barrier. This is a chemical treatment applied to the soil around the perimeter of your home’s foundation.

Getting Rid Of Drywood Termites

Whereas subterranean termites enter your home from the ground up, drywood termites often enter from the top down. Drywood termites do not need moisture to survive. They nest and build colonies in dry, exposed wood (often at the roof line).

Drywood termites chew wood across the grain, creating a system of hollow tunnels that connect larger hollowed chambers used for nesting. Excrement from drywood termites (also known as frass) builds up within the tunnels and will be kicked out through small pin holes. Evidence of a drywood termite infestation is often the presence of frass (which resembles sawdust) near these tiny holes. These kick holes are most often seen around window sills, door frames, and floor boards.

The treatment for a whole house infestation of drywood termites is fumigation. However, if the activity is localized, spot treatments (typically with foam termiticide) may be sufficient.

Getting Rid Of Dampwood Termites

Dampwood termites are significantly larger than other termite species and specifically target very moist or rotting wood that is in direct contact with damp soil. However, they do not nest within the soil and do not bring dirt with them like subterranean termites.

The key with treating dampwood termites is to first address the moisture source and eliminate excessive moisture from the area. Once moisture is under control, replace any rotting wood and use a soil perimeter barrier if the targeted wood is in direct contact with the ground. For any wood that is not in direct contact with the ground, I recommend using a foam termiticide for localized, spot treatment.

Termite Treatment Details

Soil Perimeter Barrier

Creating a soil perimeter barrier around your foundation (or other termite infested area) is one of the most effective treatments for subterranean and dampwood termites. This treatment involves digging a 6” wide by 6” deep trench around the entire foundation and spraying a continuous band of termiticide (such as Termidor SC) in the trench. Finish by back filling with the excavated dirt.

With a poison barrier created within your soil, termites are forced to travel through it on their way into your home. Unknowingly, the poison is tracked back into the colony. Termites, through their social grooming and interactions continue to spread the poison throughout the colony. I have seen this treatment wipeout termite colonies in about 3 months.

Most termiticides used for this treatment will need to be diluted with water before being applied. Be sure to read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully before applying this treatment yourself.

Professionals provide an equivalent soil perimeter barrier treatment using special equipment to inject the termiticide into the soil every 1’ around the foundation perimeter. The effectiveness of the treatment can last for several years.

Fumigation

Fumigation (also referred to as tenting) is what comes to mind for a lot of folks when they hear ‘termite treatment’. It involves covering the entire home with tarps (making your home resemble a circus tent) before releasing a gas within the home. The gas permeates all areas of the home where drywood termites exist, including the termite’s intricate tunnel systems within your walls, floors, and furniture. The fumigant depletes termites of oxygen, effects their nervous system, and eventually kills them.

Fumigation is an extremely effective treatment for extensive, whole house drywood termite infestations. It should be done by a trained professional and requires your family, pets, plants, medications and all food items be removed from the home for the duration of the treatment, which typically takes several days.

Foam Insecticide

Foam termiticide (such as Termidor Foam) is good for treating smaller, localized areas for subterranean, drywood, and dampwood termites. This product is sprayed directly into any voids where termites exist, where it will expand up to 30 fold within the hollowed area.

While this product can be used within the interior of a home, it is also used outdoors for spot treatments on wood decking, fencing and retaining walls.

Bait Stations (Alternative To Soil Perimeter Barriers)

Bait stations consist of cylindrical plastic stakes that are inserted into the ground around the perimeter of the home foundation (or other infested area). These stakes contain termiticide-laced wood intended to attracted termites on their way back to their colony. Within the colony, the toxic bait will be spread and eventually kill the entire colony.

While I strongly recommend soil perimeter barriers for the treatment of subterranean and dampwood termites, bait stations are an alternative when soil treatments simply are not an option. For example, when excessive moisture or water in the soil cannot be eliminated, chemically treating the soil should be avoided.

Final Thoughts

Getting rid of termites is highly dependent on the specific termite species you are dealing with. It is important to correctly identify the species before selecting a treatment. In most cases, getting rid of termites can be a DIY project. Professional services are available to help identify termite species, evaluate damage, treat extensive infestations, and apply preventative treatments.

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